Peptide education
Palmitoyl tripeptide-38
Palmitoyl tripeptide-38 is a modified three-residue peptide used in topical cosmetics. It carries a palmitoyl group and an oxidized methionine residue.
An uncontrolled study in 35 women reported changes in skin measurements after a serum containing the peptide and vitamins C and E. A manufacturer report also describes a small placebo comparison of an ingredient blend. Neither establishes the effect of pure peptide across products.
Overview
Quick answer
A serum containing vitamins and this peptide is a combined product. Changes seen with that serum do not establish what the peptide does by itself.
What was tested?
One study used a facial serum containing the peptide, vitamin C, and vitamin E. A manufacturer report described a separate cream containing a peptide ingredient blend. Neither tested pure peptide alone.
Is it the same as palmitoyl tripeptide-1?
No. The ingredient names identify different modified peptides.
What is known about safety?
No serum-related adverse effects were observed during the 56-day study. This does not rule out uncommon reactions or establish long-term safety.
Evidence
Evidence snapshot
Skin measurements changed from baseline after a multi-ingredient serum.
The vitamin-and-peptide serum study had no vehicle or peptide-only comparison.
A cream with a commercial ingredient blend was compared with placebo; the report gives limited methods.
Claims
Common claims vs evidence
| Claim | Human evidence | Verdict |
|---|---|---|
| The peptide alone causes the serum's wrinkle results. | The study used a serum containing vitamins C and E as well as the peptide. | No ingredient-specific effect can be inferred from this uncontrolled study. |
Bottom line
Main takeaway
This is a modified tripeptide in some cosmetic formulas.
A result for one vitamin-and-peptide serum does not describe every peptide product.
A well-described, matched-vehicle comparison would improve attribution.
Identity
What it is
The chemical structure is palmitoyl-Lys-Met(O2)-Lys-OH. The oxidized methionine and palmitoyl group are part of the named substance.
Research
Research evidence
An uncontrolled study evaluated a vitamin-and-peptide serum. A separate manufacturer report described a placebo comparison of a peptide ingredient blend.
| Study / evidence area | Population | Design | Product context | Main outcome | Limitations | Weight |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Manufacturer-reported cream comparison | 25 women aged 42 to 70; one assessment included 24 women | Placebo comparison over 2 months, described in a manufacturer report | Cream containing 2% of a commercial blend with palmitoyl tripeptide-38 and carriers | The report described differences in selected eye-area wrinkle measurements compared with placebo. | The manufacturer summary gives limited study methods; 2% refers to the ingredient blend rather than pure peptide. | Manufacturer-reported controlled formulation evidence |
| Vitamin and peptide serum study | 35 women over age 40 with visible photoaging | Open-label, before-and-after study for 56 days | Serum with 15% weight per volume vitamin C, vitamin E, and 5 parts per million palmitoyl tripeptide-38 | Investigators reported changes in skin roughness and tone from baseline. | No control group or peptide-only comparison; the study was funded by the product manufacturer. | Limited uncontrolled product evidence |
Use context
Reported use context
The serum and cream studies used different formulations and application schedules.
Study and label context
The report describes twice-daily application for 2 months.
The cream contained 2% of an ingredient blend, not 2% pure peptide. This is not a recommendation.Participants applied the serum once daily for 56 days.
The preparation contained vitamins C and E in addition to 5 parts per million of the peptide. This is not a recommendation.Cautions
Safety and unknowns
- No serum-related adverse effects were observed in the study. A small, short trial cannot rule out uncommon or delayed reactions.
- The study does not establish the safety of other concentrations, products, or routes.
Product quality
Product identity and quality
A peptide supplier blend and a finished serum may have different concentrations and ingredients.
Full ingredient name
Different palmitoyl tripeptides have different structures.
Concentration basis
A supplier blend percentage is not necessarily the percentage of pure peptide.
Other actives
Vitamins, carriers, and preservatives can influence a product's effects and tolerability.
Mechanism
How it is proposed to work
The peptide is marketed for skin-matrix support, but the cited serum study did not separate its effect from those of the other ingredients.
Its structure includes a palmitoyl group and a methionine sulfone residue.
Details
Technical details
Sources
References
- 1.
Manufacturer report. Palmitoyl tripeptide-38 ingredient profile
Manufacturer summary of a small placebo comparison using a commercial ingredient blend; full study methods are not provided.
- 2.
doi:10.1111/jocd.13770 PMID:33103342
Open-label, uncontrolled study of a serum with vitamins C and E and palmitoyl tripeptide-38.
- 3.
PubChem. Palmitoyl lysyldioxymethionyllysine
Chemical record identifies palmitoyl tripeptide-38 as palmitoyl-Lys-Met(O2)-Lys-OH.
- 4.
PubChem. Palmitoyl tripeptide-1
Chemical record for a different palmitoylated tripeptide.
- 5.
FDA. Is It a Cosmetic, a Drug, or Both? (Or Is It Soap?)
US product classification depends on intended use.